A total of 230 routes
Climbing on the Brauneck cliffs
A total of 230 routes
Climbing on the Brauneck cliffs
In the snow-free months, the Brauneck not only attracts hikers and paragliders. The Brauneck crags are also extremely popular with sport climbers. With a total of 230 routes of (almost) all levels of difficulty , this is not surprising. Over 100 new routes have been opened up on Brauneck in recent years. IG Klettern, which describes Brauneck on its website as a climbing gem in the foothills of the Alps, recently published its new guide "Brauneck - Climbing on Lenggries' local mountain". The routes are easily and conveniently accessible with the Brauneck cable car. From the mountain station, simply follow the panoramic trail towards Stie-Alm.
A hidden climbing paradise for autumn adventures
A hidden climbing paradise for autumn adventures
Klara Palme, author and passionate sport climber, also describes the climbing paradise on the Brauneck with palpable enthusiasm:
While winter sports enthusiasts wax their skis full of anticipation in the fall, for us climbers the rather gloomy season begins, and not just in terms of the weather. Because the demands on a climbing area are particularly high in the transitional period: it should be south-facing, with good rock quality and varied routes, accessible as quickly as possible and well secured, because the days are very short. Preferably high up, so that you can feel a touch of alpine freedom above the clouds and with a beautiful view. The agonizing question remains: where to go?
"Sport climbing on Brauneck, Lenggries' old local mountain, are there any rocks there at all?" For a long time, we didn't want to believe that there was a small climbing paradise with an alpine backdrop right on our doorstep. "Kissed awake in a two-year development frenzy" is the poetic description in the climbing guide, which promises over 250 varied routes. It's time to take a closer look at this area.
Warm up your fingers first. Perhaps start where the more recent development of the climbing area began, namely in the Stie-Alm Kessel. The main Wilderland sector begins directly behind the farmed alpine pasture with a multitude of routes of all levels of difficulty in sloping to vertical limestone. After a few easy routes, one thing is clear: the rock offers good structures, good grip and great friction. The ice is quickly broken, on to the next level! A roof with large holds like in Arakis (7+) shouldn't be a problem...should it? The seemingly harmless but quite tricky First Ant Trail (7-) and Same Same but Different (8-) are also a real test of finger strength and endurance. Wherever we climb, we find beautiful lines throughout. That makes us want more!
Challenging climbing routes in the circus cauldron
Challenging climbing routes in the circus cauldron
On the way to the Zirkuskessel, you can't miss the Gamskopf, a small rock needle with a concrete summit cairn. The athletic roof exit of Laminator (7) is climbing at its best. The breathtaking Alpine panorama also makes for beautiful climbing photos. The Gamskopf is a recommended "delicacy" at the end or simply for in between.
The gray-orange rock formation of the Zirkuswand is not only interesting for geologists. What looks brittle from a distance turns out to be pure fun with side holds and scales once you've climbed it. The vertically stepped, stacked layers of rock are a challenge for foot technique and coordination. Scale terror (6) my ass! Even the long snowstorm (7) is a real pleasure with such positive holds.
A little further on in the balcony sector, the next surprise awaits: easy slab climbing on huge water holes. These are wonderful parades of holds, as if made for climbing. Climbing from left to right, you're like a frog in a saucepan. Finally, Chilli (8-) really gets the steam going with a piaz that has it all. And while we're at the piaz, it's not far to the crack either.
Cracks don't make every climber's heart beat faster. But perhaps that could change here? Beautiful cracks are actually rare in limestone. So it's all the more surprising that the walls on Brauneck offer several great crack intersections. " Zirkusriss (7-) must be maha...," is the tip from a local. We don't need to be told twice. If you make it past the first few meters, you'll enjoy a fantastic crack intersection - whether you use the piaz technique or the clamp technique. Crack fans will find another highlight, Devil's Crack (7) , a little to the west of the Stie-Alm on the rock needle Mr. Nilson in the Taka Tuka Land sector.
Files and information
Adventurous climbing routes and hidden highlights on the Brauneck
Slowly, we feel our way towards somewhat wilder lines with a touch of adventure. "Not for plastic climbers, you have to have done it", teases the climbing guide in the description of the Furchtfurche route (7/7+). It's obvious that the author is luring us into a small test piece here. Nevertheless, curiosity wins out: what's it all about? The entry chimney and the hanging offwidth crack demand creativity in terms of movement and the courage to find gaps. The critical question is always the same: to climb inside or outside? A decision between painful tightness and yawning emptiness, or simply a question of technique. It would not be an exaggeration to say that the route is also a challenge for climbers of higher levels of difficulty. Nevertheless, or perhaps precisely because of this, the tour is highly recommended. If you want to increase the difficulty, we recommend Gula (9-) in the predator cage sector. The overhanging crack intersection can really heat things up.
These are just a few of the climbing delights that await above the Isar valley. Comfortably moving from rock to rock, grazing the most beautiful lines. This is not only possible in the fall, but also in early winter and sometimes well into December. It's a real privilege to climb high above the misty fog and enjoy the sun in a T-shirt. This is how we got to know and appreciate Brauneck as an attractive climbing destination . An area with many small challenges, where rock addicts can wonderfully shorten the winter.
